Kaili to Congjiang to Zhaoxing

Kaili to Zhaoxing

November 5

Travel days are usually not very memorable ... this one will be remembered for a lifetime.

We started out thinking is was going to be a ten-plus hour day of traveling by bus. The first leg was an eight hour ride from Kaili to Congjiang. How long we had to wait in Congjiang for a bus to Zhoaxing would determine what time we would reach Zhaoxing.

We had a good day for traveling.

We travelled for a short time along the same route we had taken to go to Xijang but then took a turn and climbed up into the mountains.

The bus would weave down switchback roads into short valleys banked by tiers of rice paddies and then climb even higher.

Then we started down ... at a rapid speed ... twisting and turning around the narrow corners.

When we stopped at a little shack propped between the road and the mountain drop off, a lady ran out of the shack, grabbed a hose and aimed it under the bus. Her actions were followed by a blast of steam from the hot brake pads.

While they filled up the brake cooling water tanks, passengers could use the toilet facilities - such as they were.

A yellow bus passed without stopping.

We were on our way again ... but things had changed. The bus was going faster ... the roads had not changed ... but the driver's driving had. It was madness. Narrow roads, no guardrails, sheer drops.

We caught up to the yellow bus and began to realize the drivers were racing ... and not just the two of them but also with a third bus.

We hung on ... tight ... to stop from being thrown off our seats. Was it just us? Was this normal?

A Chinese gentleman called out (words Angela recognized) "Slow down." The bus driver said, "no".

For approximately forty-five minutes we literally feared for our lives. Our bus passed the yellow bus in a small village. Some of it's passengers were crying and being sick.

Shortly afterwards, our driver stopped the bus, got out and walked around the bus. Perhaps a move to save face, for when he got back in, his driving was reasonable again. We breathed a sigh of relief ... and were even more at peace when we reached the valley floor.

The bus stopped again. This time it was a scheduled stop at a fast food place. Also at the bus stop a beautiful young mother sold nuts and mandarin oranges. We bought a bag of oranges hoping to share them with the other passengers.

Our arrival in Congjiang was one hour early.

We were not disappointed to leave this bus and driver. We believe that what we experienced was most unusual and had it been another day, our reaction to the trip would have been ... in hindsight ... blissful boredom.

There was no time to get our land-legs back. A small van-sized bus with double seats on one side and single seats on the other was already loading for the trip to Zhoaxing. We climbed on board.

At the bus station we were told the cost to Zhaoxing would be Y15. After the bus had left the city of Congjiang a woman moved from the front of the bus collecting fares. When she got to us the fare went up from Y15 to Y20. We discussed the quote but she didn't understand or chose not to. Unless we wanted to get off we would have to pay ... what we would come to call "the tourist tax".

The driver moved slowly and safely through the hills and valleys and we were grateful. It was fascinating to see passengers with their different packages getting on and off the bus.

A father with a little one and bags made a short trip between villages.

One fellow they picked up alongside a country road had a tree stump, which the driver and the driver's helper managed to get onto the roof rack of the bus. It is times like this we wish we could speak the language so we could learn more about these interesting people.

The bus also attracted attention as we drove through small settlements. Was anyone getting off? Who was travelling through? Hey, there are white people.

The sun was getting low in the sky creating a golden glow over the country side.

At the edge of Zhoaxing the driver and his assistant indicated that we had arrived. Pleased to have reached Zhoaxing before dark, we put on our backpacks and headed down main street.

click here to continue November 5 and Zhoaxing ...