June 4

We put on the first load and then walked the neighbourhood.

We didn’t have to go to Old Town to have shutter clicking photo opportunities; the neighbourhood around ElizaBetes Nams is teeming with extraordinary examples of extravagant Art Nouveau architecture.

For photographers, both evening walks and morning walks will be rewarding.

Terry had picked up a booklet from the bus station tourist information office when we first arrived.

It had a map suggesting a walking tour and descriptions on each of the featured buildings. We did the portion of the tour around our room’s neighbourhood. The buildings were jaw-dropping in their decoration ... from robot-looking heads (remembering these were done in the latter part of the 1800s), female forms, heads, dogs, lions, sleek and curvy designs and "screamers" looking, surprisingly, like Sherrie reacting to her fear of heights.

Dinner was at a cafeteria style restaurant. Terry asked about the Riga traditional dish of "pig knuckles". The young girl pointed to ribs. We looked around for something which looked like a joint (appreciating pigs do not have "knuckles") and, not seeing anything, settled for the ribs and made up plates of salad and vegetables. It was good and would certainly fit most traveller’s budgets.

June 5

Riga has celebrated its 800^th birthday; having been deemed as formed in 1201. Back then it was a medieval city enclosed by defence walls and ramparts. In the 18^th century the fortification ramparts were levelled. At the turn of the 20^th century Riga developed a "Boulevard Circle" with grand eclectic and art nouveau buildings (some we saw last night), colourful gardens and lots of park greenery. In 1918, Latvia’s national independence was declared in Riga, the new capital city. Growth continued through the 20s and 30s and Riga’s pride and joy, the Monument to Freedom was erected. This statue kept its place during the years of Latvia’s Soviet rule but during that time people were not allowed to congregate and the laying of flowers at its base could be the purchase price for a one way ticket to Siberia.

On August 21, 1991, after 50 years "of occupation", the Latvian State was renewed and new opportunities opened. It is now working towards full membership in the E.U..

We were excited when we woke, anticipating the sights we would see. The pleasures started with breakfast. Staff had requested a specific time when we would arrive in the morning and now we understood why. The leisurely meal started with orange juice, a basket of breads and a plate of meats, cheeses, tomatoes and olives. We expected that was it, when they brought out two plates of bacon, eggs, cauliflower and salad. To finish they served a light dessert and coffee or tea. It was all beautifully presented, flavourful and filling. We were pleased we were going to be walking today.

We picked up the tour where we left off last night, moving through the long park which divides Old Town from the embassy district. Running the length of the park is a canal filled with coffee brown water. People sat on benches or stretched out on the grassy slopes under wide old shade trees. Paddle boats meandered as operators pumped their legs as on a bicycle under the many foot bridges and a few traffic bridges which cross the canal. The footbridges are decorated with padlocks. Newlyweds as a symbol of their love loop a padlock on the railing of these bridges and then throw the key into the murky water.

There is not a drastic visual difference once we entered Old Town. The city had grown gently and, as far as our eyes could discern, with a great deal of dignity. Pictures tell of what we saw much better than words.

Add the music of street musicians and you will have some idea of Riga’s pleasing ambience.

Walking for hours seemed effortless as the mind took in more at each turn and the camera clicked.

Other than dirt, probably the oldest thing we saw in Riga was the Oak trunk displayed inside the Town Hall. It was found during excavation work for Riga’s new Town Hall. They say it is 3500 years old.

So many streets in Riga seemed to hold unusual buildings, often with a character perched upon it’s facade or eave or rooftop (not all special enough to be mentioned in our guidebook, but enough to capture our attention). Other old buildings had ground floors where once families lived, worked and traded while basements, upper floors and attics were used to store raw materials or finished goods.

We stopped for a cool drink at a sidewalk café right across the street from a elderly lady dancing, well ... really it was just moving ... to music from her radio/tape player. She was dressed in a white pleated skirt, a red cowboy shirt, a white cowgirl hat and white gloves. It was sad really. She made three moves with her arms and feet and then would circle ... three more of the same moves and circle ... the same speed, no matter what kind of music (from classic to western to rap) was playing.

Lots of people giggled as they passed, or turned their heads away and laughed. A couple of younger people put money in her bowl ... which only encouraged her. Two of these young people came back with a film crew. It was painful to watch as she enjoyed the attention but we thought they were taking advantage of her naivety (or senility). Maybe we are wrong. Maybe such coverage will make her a pop cult figure and perhaps such activity makes her happy .... like the saying "dance like no one is watching".

It was close to 10:30pm when we started back through the park to our room. The sun was still above the horizon and the air warm.

June 6 A travel day by bus from Riga, Latvia to Tallinn, Estonia.

click here to continue June 6  and trip to Tallinn, Estonia ...