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More information below videos. |
| Terry and Michael had arrived in Africa on
May 28, five days before commencement of their Kilimanjaro climb, to
allow sufficient time to get over jet lag and to become acclimatized.
The time was spent on safari with
Zara Adventures in the area of
Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara National Park, finally ending up on
June 1 at the Springlands Hotel
in Moshi where gear was sorted out and they readied themselves for the
challenge ahead. Before sunset, Felix, the gentleman who would be their guide and protector for the next six days, arrived. Felix is fifty-three years old and has plenty of mountain experience ... a great comfort. Felix asked if they had this-and-that kind of equipment and seemed to be pleased Terry and Michael were well equipped. They would meet again in the morning. |
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After weighing packs (clients are limited to 15kg each), a final check of supplies and equipment is made and then porters, cook and assistant guide move out. Felix, Terry and Michael complete the necessary paperwork, present passports and shortly after 11:00 they too are underway. Spirits are high ... the adrenalin is pumping ... we’re full of nervous anticipation ... with just a touch of apprehension. |
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The trail is wide and climbs gradually through a lush forest of towering eucalyptus trees. Bonus - few flies and even fewer mosquitoes. Stopped for a bagged lunch break around 13:30 - what we don’t eat is distributed by Felix to support people we meet who are descending the mountain. Although porters are carrying most of Terry and Michael’s gear, Felix is carrying his own. |
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Terry and Michael drink more than their usual amount of water as dehydration at high altitude can be most dangerous. They are also taking altitude sickness medication (which acts like a diuretic) so the two combined make for frequent "pee" breaks. |
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Unpack. Abraham, our waiter/porter, delivers a basin of warm water which is well received. This is followed by a bit of relaxing over coffee, tea and popcorn before Jacabo, the assistant guide, arrives to take Michael and Terry up to Maundi Crater. |
| It’s a 15 minute hike above camp and offers great views of Northern Tanzania and Kenya. |
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Back at camp, Abraham calls Michael and Terry to supper just before 19:00 and it is attacked with vigour. It’s been a good day. |
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June 5 - day 4 on the mountain Another night with little sleep. Day dons bright and clear with high wispy cloud. Intensity of the sun at this altitude has to be experienced to be appreciated. Trail steepens and becomes a little more difficult to traverse. "Pole, pole" Once again the grassland thins as favourable conditions for plant life recede. |
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Down and across The Saddle we go. Temperature drops 1°C for every 200m increase in altitude and although it’s early afternoon and we are working hard, we are really starting to feel the cold. |
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Arrive Kibo Hut (4750m/15,520ft) approximately 15:30. "Man, is it cold!" The clouds part - we see the challenge ahead to Gilman’s Point and glaciers near the summit. Supper served around 17:30. We just stare at it - no appetite. Then it’s into our sleeping bags in an attempt to keep warm and hopefully to sleep. |
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| A Slovakian couple, who we had seen several times over the past few days, are the first to leave at 23:45, followed by a pair of Dutch climbers at midnight. |
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June 6 - Day 5 on the mountain Today is the day! Michael, Terry, Felix and Jacabo step out into the cold and darkness at 00:15. Order is determined - Felix to lead, followed by Michael, Terry and Jacabo. Terry and Michael have made a pact. If one needs to turn back the other will continue on. The clear night sky is full of stars; what a sight - no pollution at this elevation. Head lamps are switched on and we’re underway. |
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Snow appears among the boulders and soon it is almost constant underfoot. Felix is increasingly hesitant and looks around as if unsure of the trail. "Is he lost," we wonder. Suddenly, right in front of us is the Gilman’s Point sign ... "You are now at / GILMAN’S POINT, 5681m / Tanzania / Welcome and Congratulations" ... we literally walk right into it. Felix wasn’t lost. It’s 05:45 - the sky is beginning to brighten in the east. Jacabo passes around a thermos of warm water he has brought with him. |
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Felix points out Uhuru Peak around the crater’s rim to our left - the very top of Kilimanjaro.
"Shit, we aren’t even close!" is our first thought. The summit is still 1½ hours away ... move out.
"Pole, pole."
We reach Stella Point at sunrise. It’s a beautiful, beautiful morning. Mawenzi Peak, which towered over us for much of the last three days is now below us. Is this for real?!
"Pole, pole."
Decken Glacier and Southern Icefield are on our left; the crater on our right. |
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The summit is in sight. Gotta go. "Pole, pole."
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We’ve arrived. Felix turns and faces Terry and Michael. The summit sign is touched. We made it ... the summit of Kilimanjaro ... 5895 metres, 19,340 feet. "Can you believe this!" Hugs and "thank you"s all around. |
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| Looking down from Gilman’s Point to Kibo Hut, helped us appreciate what we had accomplished earlier in the dark. One of the reasons the summit is attempted at night, besides being at Uhuru for sunrise, is that the mountain is just too intimidating during the day. |
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| No energy to celebrate or reflect upon our accomplishment ... we’ll do that back at the hotel over a Kilimanjaro beer (or two). |
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| A READER'S NOTE: If you enjoyed this journal of 'Climbing Kilimanjaro' with Terry & Michael, you may also enjoy their account of hiking the West Coast Trail, in Canada. |
| ●To top of page ●Africa Home Page ●West Coast Trail ●Travel Tales Home Page |
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www.traveltales.ca and
www.bryan-thorne.com All
rights reserved. The information on these pages ... writings and pictures ... may not be reproduced without the written permission of Terry and/or Sherrie Thorne. If you have any question or want reproductions of pictures seen here please feel free to contact this site's Webmaster |